On leaving the Fells in Accra, we headed for the Ghana/Benin border via Lake Volta. Our border crossing strategy has by this stage become fairly standard – head to a smallish border, get there with plenty of time to spare before night-fall and be sure to dress appropriately for the day (soccer or Madiba t-shirts are preferable). We spent the night prior to the border crossing at the ‘Mountain Paradise Lodge’, north of Ho. It was a pretty spot amongst the Biakpa hills and we were lulled to sleep by the staccato beat of drums being played in a distant village. After a quick walk the next morning to a view-point situated near Amedzofe, we set off for country number 12!
Our border crossing was thankfully uneventful (possibly thanks to Mik who managed to make the border official laugh out loud with her imitation of a lion when describing a South African R50 note which he had been interested in seeing), and we were once more grateful for our South African passports which meant we didn’t need visas. We crossed over near the Togolese town of Kpalime, following a small road towered by enormous trees and palm leaves the sizes of elephant ears, and then headed for Mt. Klouto situated in the coffee-growing highland district of the region, and famous also for it’s forest and butterflies. We spent the night camped on the summit, where we drank ‘Mt. Klouto Kick Mango Rum Smoothies’ and debated the possibilities of starting a ‘Togo-Juice’ business, inspired by the abundant array of fruit we had seen and bought on our way up to the summit. Innocent® be warned, competition awaits!
The following morning, we went on a guided walk of the surrounds, led by Guillime. We were led through patches of beautiful lush forest, sadly interspersed far too frequently by fields of ‘slash and burn’ farming. We saw a few of the 200 species of butterflies, but it was probably too early in the morning for the full spectacle to be observed. Or perhaps the reduction of their habitat is not helping the expansion of numbers! (We did however see beautiful display cases of butterflies – ‘a vendre’ – the colours and variety of which would impress any entymologist worth his salt). Guillime was incredibly knowledgeable regarding the local medicinal uses of plants; and he showed and described to us the local cures for malaria, infection and fever. He also explained that the leaves of the cassava plant are chewed if someone is bitten by a snake, and this apparently helps to slow down the spread of the venom (perhaps by slowing down one’s heart-rate?) while the unfortunate victim seeks medical attention. After purchasing batik art-work from a great local artist, pineapple jam and locally produced coffee, we set off for Lome.
Lome is a bit of a shock after the impressive infrastructure and economic drive found in Accra. Togo’s first democratic elections were held in 2007. It is incredibly dilapidated and the signs of its corrupt and unstable government are glaringly obvious, bar the tarred main seaside boulevard, no doubt a Chinese ‘contribution’. We checked ourselves in to ‘Chez Alice’ and then set off for our appointment aboard the Mercy ship, currently moored in Lome. (The taxi ride there was pretty scary to say the least!). Neil’s brother had helped us to organise the visit the ‘floating hospital’ through his fiancée who had worked as a volunteer on board. Kelly and Estelle kindly showed us around the ship and answered our hundreds of questions with much patience! We were amazed by the extent of the facilities, from fully equipped operating theatres and school-rooms to a Starbucks cafeteria! The Christian organization that runs the Mercy ship is based in The States, and relies solely on donations to keep it going. If ever there was a worthy cause, this is it! The surgeries range from maxillo-fascial tumour removals and orthopaedic osteotomies to cleft palate repairs and cataract removals. There are also extensive community education and training programmes. After attending a vibrant church service onboard, we disembarked and headed for ‘The Pumpkin Man’s Fast Food Restaurant’, so named on account of his sign-board, which was anything but fast but did serve great local dishes at very affordable prices.
The next day was meant to be ‘head for the border day’, but unfortunately Maude developed a problem with her air-con bearings, and her loud screeching protests meant that we stayed another day in town as the crew tried to source parts. Andrew, Laura and I took the opportunity to check out the “Voodoo/Fetish” market in town. Interesting, if a bit touristy, and rather devastating for the poor animals!!
So, here we sit in Togo, as we await Maude’s repairs.
